The further north you drive from Ubud, the less touristy it becomes. Of course, there are still tourists in northern Bali. But here everything feels much more pristine. There are fewer buildings, nature is in the foreground. We also pass some agricultural land and for the first time I see a few industrial-looking buildings. The north is a big contrast to the bustling south of Bali.
If it's your first time in Bali, I would rather explore the south, Ubud and the islands for “the Bali everyone talks about”. But if you've already seen it all anyway or have plenty of time, then you shouldn't leave North Bali out! Especially not if you want to see a different side of Bali. North Bali is certainly not like it was 50 years ago, before tourism boomed in Bali. But here you can imagine what the beginnings looked like.
When Helena and I sat in a traditional warung, it felt like we were sitting in an Indonesian family's living room for dinner. We were both fascinated by how authentic it was. There was an older couple sitting at the table next to us, with whom we struck up a conversation - after all, we were practically sitting next to each other. They told us that they had been traveling to Bali for many years and that they simply felt most at home here in the north, away from the mass tourism. Given the authentic atmosphere, I can well understand that!