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Ella

There is hardly any place in Sri Lanka that is as closely associated with the island’s legendary train journey as Ella. Traveling by train from Kandy through endless tea plantations and mist-covered mountains into the highlands is an experience in itself. The small town has a laid-back vibe and is surrounded by lush green hills, waterfalls, and viewpoints such as the famous Nine Arches Bridge. Almost everywhere, you’re rewarded with sweeping views over the mountainous landscape. Despite its popularity, Ella has retained a certain sense of calm — and that’s exactly what gives the place its charm.

16/11/2025

dear(travel)diary,

from Sigiriya, we first took a taxi to Kandy. There, we grabbed a quick snack at Avo Coffee Kandy before boarding what is probably Sri Lanka’s most famous train: the one from Kandy to Ella.

Beforehand, I had read that you should definitely book second class because you can open the windows there — perfect for those iconic photos with windblown hair and endless tea plantations in the background. Well… I accidentally bought first-class tickets instead.

At first, I was a bit disappointed — after all, the windows are closed in first class (though everything is air-conditioned). But in hindsight, it turned out to be perfect for us. It was pleasantly cool, much quieter, and we could still step out to the open doors at any time. And yes — those doors really are open. That’s exactly what makes this journey so special: as the train slowly winds through green hills and tea plantations, people stand in the doorways, legs dangling, taking photos. You’ve probably seen this image on Instagram — and it’s just as beautiful as it looks.

The route itself is spectacular. Time and again, the train passes through lush green landscapes, small villages, bridges, and mist drifting over the hills. There was even a small onboard kitchen, which at one point almost turned into a little party on our train. It was a charming mix of backpackers, locals, and a whole lot of excitement about reaching Ella.

After several hours filled with constant “wow” moments, we finally arrived in Ella. And the contrast to Sigiriya was immediately noticeable. Ella is much more touristy, more lively — almost like a small backpacker hub with bars, restaurants, and a bit of a party vibe. After the quieter, more traditional Sigiriya, it felt different at first — maybe even a little too touristy. Still, the mountain scenery, fresh air, and relaxed atmosphere won us over right away.

xx Chiara


Small tip: Make sure to book your ticket well in advance. This train journey is extremely popular and often sells out early. You can book your ticket here. We paid around EUR 21 per person for first-class tickets.


What to see & do:


Nine Arches Bridge

The Nine Arches Bridge is probably the most iconic photo spot around Ella. From Ella, the bridge is easy to reach on foot. A short walk along a narrow forest path suddenly brings you face to face with this impressive piece of colonial-era architecture, gracefully spanning a lush green valley.

Around the bridge, there are several small cafés with elevated views of the tracks — perfect for relaxing while you wait for the train to pass. And that’s the real highlight: when the train slowly rolls across the bridge, with people leaning out of the doors, it creates that iconic Sri Lanka moment. Trains pass several times a day, so you usually won’t have to wait too long for one to come by.

The Nine Arches Bridge is a very popular spot, so expect plenty of visitors and small vendor stalls. If you’d like to buy something, it’s worth comparing prices briefly and bargaining politely.


Ravana Pool Club

If you’re in the mood for a relaxed pool day in between, Ravana Pool Club is the place to go. The pool club is modern and stylish, with a design that slightly reminds of Bali — lots of wood, natural tones, a well-maintained property, and a beautiful setting surrounded by greenery.

Price-wise, it’s closer to European levels than Sri Lankan ones. The entrance fee isn’t exactly cheap, but it’s worth it if you spend several hours there and intentionally enjoy a slow, relaxed day.

The food and drinks also lean Western: the menu features pizza, tacos, bowls, burgers, and a variety of cocktails — so more international favorites than local cuisine. If you prefer traditional Sri Lankan food, this might not be the right spot for you. Overall, though, it was a genuinely relaxing day for us, with good music, great views, and pure vacation vibes. Would I do it again? Definitely — simply as a little “treat yourself” moment during a round trip.


Ella's Hikes

Ella is known for its many hiking options. Two of the most popular are the climb up Little Adam’s Peak and the hike to the Ella Rock viewpoint. Both offer stunning views over the surrounding mountain landscape and are considered quite manageable, depending on the route and how steep it is.

We actually didn’t do any of the classic hikes ourselves. After traveling to Sri Lanka just shortly before, we were still a bit tired, and the temperatures didn’t help either. We also wanted to approach this trip in a more relaxed way and not feel the need to “tick off” every viewpoint.

That said, we never felt like we were missing out on views in Ella. Thanks to its location in the middle of lush green hills, the town offers beautiful panoramic scenery almost everywhere you go. That’s why I’m sure the hikes are absolutely worth it — especially if you’re in the mood for some movement and want to experience the landscape more actively.

If you’re looking for something more adventurous, you can even zipline through the mountain scenery, which is another popular activity in Ella. It is priced more on the touristy side, though, which is why we decided against it. I’m sure it’s fun — but for us, it just didn’t feel quite right at the time.


Ella's Town Center

Ella’s town center is compact but lively. Along the main road, you’ll find a string of small souvenir shops, boutiques selling casual summer clothing, cafés and restaurants. Much of it is clearly geared toward travelers — from smoothie bowls to backpacker bars. In the evening, the town feels noticeably livelier than during the day. We didn’t go out partying ourselves, but there are several bars with music and karaoke, and overall Ella definitely has more nightlife vibes than places like Sigiriya. So if you’re in the mood for a bit more buzz, you’ll find it here.

What I found especially interesting was the small local market. It’s nothing like the large markets you might know from other countries. Instead of permanent stalls, goods are often simply laid out on blankets on the ground and sold right there. Very simple, very direct — and somehow charming because of it. It felt less like a tourist market and more like a glimpse into everyday life.

In general, it’s worth just wandering through Ella Town, letting yourself drift, stopping by a café, and watching the colorful hustle and bustle. It’s more touristy than some other places in Sri Lanka but still sweet in its own way.


Ravana Falls & Diyaluma Falls

On the way from Ella toward Udawalawe, we made two stopovers — both absolutely worth it if you’re already traveling by car. Our first stop was Ravana Falls. This is more of a quick break: you pull over by the roadside, take a look at the waterfall, snap a few photos, and move on. No long walk, no effort involved, but still very nice to see.

We spent significantly more time at Diyaluma Falls. From below, you can already see the impressive main waterfall plunging dramatically into the valley. We then hiked a bit uphill (a short, very manageable mini hike) to reach a plateau with natural rock pools and a second waterfall. From there, the water drops straight down into the depths. Higher up, there are even more pools where you can actually swim. That said, you should be cautious in the lower pools, as some areas drop off steeply and the currents can be stronger than expected.

Things got especially exciting when our driver (who ended up acting a bit like a guide along the way) suddenly pointed into the distance and said, “There’s an elephant over there.” At first, we couldn’t see anything. But then, sure enough, something started moving in the greenery far away. A completely unexpected moment in the middle of this vast landscape. Our guide also told us that elephants occasionally appear in this area — even on hiking trails or near an open campsite. For locals, this might be manageable, but for unprepared tourists, it can definitely be dangerous.

These two stops made the drive to Udawalawe even more special — a perfect transition from mountain scenery to a safari adventure.


Where to eat & drink

In Ella, one café and restaurant follows the next. Many of them look modern and clearly geared toward tourists. With some places, I honestly wondered whether they might be tourist traps, but that’s hard to judge. That said, there is one restaurant I can truly recommend:

A real highlight for us was Little Restaurant, a small, very traditional spot with no frills at all. That’s where I had my very first kottu. Kottu roti is one of Sri Lanka’s most famous dishes: flatbread is chopped into strips on a hot griddle, mixed with vegetables, egg, and optionally meat or cheese, then stir-fried with spices. The kottu there was spicy — but at the same time the best thing I ate during our entire Sri Lanka trip.

For good coffee or matcha, I can recommend Isle of Gelato. And if you’re craving something Western, you can eat well at Ravana Pool Club after your pool day. The tacos were really delicious, but prices there are closer to European levels.


Where to sleep

We stayed at Misty Hills Ella (affiliate link). During our stay, the hotel was undergoing renovations, which you could notice in a few places — some areas had already been modernized, while others were still a work in progress. That didn’t really bother us, though. On the contrary, we even received a small upgrade and ended up with a larger room overlooking the mountains. The view was beautiful, the room spacious, and everything was clean.

We also had breakfast at the hotel and were served freshly made omelets to our liking each morning. Overall, the breakfast was simple but tasty. The real highlight, however, was the pool. From there, you have a fantastic view of the surrounding mountain landscape — perfect for relaxing after a day out or just unwinding in between.



I have put together a list of all the places on Google Maps.

You can find the list here.