South Coast

Sri Lanka’s South Coast is exactly what you imagine tropical island vibes to be like: palm trees, golden beaches, surfers everywhere, and the soothing sound of the ocean in the background. Places like Matara or Mirissa are lively, sunny, and perfect for beach days with a sundowner. Our absolute highlight, however, was Hiriketiya. The small, crescent-shaped bay feels almost like a hidden paradise — relaxed, compact, yet with really great cafés. It’s one of those places where you walk to a café in flip-flops in the morning, spend the day between waves and palm trees, and wind down in the evening with a cold drink.

16/11/2025

dear(travel)diary,

from Udawalawe National Park, we continued on to the Southwest Coast — more specifically to Hiriketiya, our absolute favorite place of the entire Sri Lanka trip. It’s one of those places where you arrive and immediately know: we could stay here. A month. Maybe longer. Easy mornings at a café, surfing or yoga in between, maybe a retreat — or maybe just reading and working your way through all the great cafés and restaurants.

Hiriketiya feels a bit like how I imagine Bali used to be “back in the day.” Laid-back, creative, relaxed, but not completely overrun yet. I’m pretty sure this place will grow. Maybe one day it’ll become the “new Bali.” But right now, it still has that effortlessly cool, low-key vibe that makes it so special.

We later traveled on to Matara and Mirissa — both beautiful places that we really liked as well. In general, we loved the entire South Coast. But Hiriketiya? A little piece of our hearts definitely stayed there.

And then something happened there that I absolutely have to share… Throughout the entire trip, we didn’t touch a single dog. Not one. But one evening, we walked past a small dachshund ("sausage dog"). Nearby was what we assumed was the mother. The little dog was very trusting, and Kim just wanted to quickly take a photo. The mother clearly didn’t like that — and snapped at her.

Luckily, Kim had been vaccinated against rabies before the trip. And that really was crucial. Sri Lanka and India are among the countries with an increased risk of rabies, and stray dogs are one of the main carriers. Even if you’re vaccinated, so-called booster shots are still required after an incident, because untreated rabies is always fatal. So you have to take situations like this very seriously.

That meant we had to organize two booster shots for Kim while we were still there. Thankfully, there are medical facilities both in Hiriketiya and Mirissa, and Kim had international health insurance. In the end, everything turned out fine and we were even able to look back on it with a sense of humor. But it was an important reminder: travel preparation isn’t just bureaucracy. Sometimes, it’s incredibly important.

And despite this incident, Hiriketiya remains, for us, a place full of lightness, ocean air, sunsets, and that unmistakable feeling of “I could stay here.”

xx Chiara

What to see & do:

Exploring the beautiful beaches in & around Hiriketiya

Hiriketiya Beach is, for me, clearly the heart of the place. The crescent-shaped bay, the palm trees, the laid-back crowd. This is a spot where you can easily spend hours just lying around, reading, swimming, or watching the surfers. We found it perfect for relaxing in particular. There are plenty of cafés nearby, so you can grab a drink in between, and depending on the season, the water is also great for swimming.

Dickwella Beach is a bit wilder and truly impressive in terms of scenery. When we were there, however, the waves were extremely strong. Relaxing or surfing wasn’t really an option that day. On calmer days, you can supposedly even snorkel with turtles there, which would of course be an absolute highlight. So it’s definitely worth checking the conditions in advance. The beach itself is beautiful either way.

We also drove to Nilwella Beach (“Blue Beach”). Maybe we were just unlucky, but to be honest, it didn’t really win us over. The small island just offshore is quite nice and adds a special backdrop, so as a short excursion it’s fine — especially if you’re mobile and want to see more of the area. But if your main goal is simply to relax, Hiriketiya Beach was more than enough for us.

Browsing through the small boutiques & shops

What I also absolutely loved in Hiriketiya was simply strolling through the small shops. The town may be compact, but there are surprisingly many really cute boutiques. I especially liked Mossy Clothing and Le Ketiya Boutique. I found so many beautiful pieces there — especially airy linen shirts and light summer clothes at really fair prices. Exactly the kind of items you wear nonstop on vacation and later instantly associate with sunshine once you’re back home.

Hiriketiya isn’t just about the beach and surfing — it also has this creative, relaxed boutique vibe. And that’s exactly what I loved so much about it.

Starting the day in a relaxed way with a yoga class

In Hiriketiya, I also took part in a yoga class—at Dots Bay House. There are several yoga providers in Hiriketiya, so it’s best to see which one suits you personally. The atmosphere there was incredibly pleasant, relaxed, and not overly spiritual — exactly the kind of morning routine I love while traveling.

What made it especially nice was that I could walk there. Strolling through the still-quiet town early in the morning and then walking back along the beach afterward felt really special. One of those moments when you realize just how good a small break from everyday life can be.

In general, Hiriketiya is perfect for a yoga or surf retreat. We didn’t do one ourselves, but since this trip, it’s been right at the top of my list. I can hardly imagine a better place to truly slow down.

Admiring the Dondra Head Lighthouse

On our way from Hiriketiya to Matara, we made a short stop at Dondra Head Lighthouse. The lighthouse sits on a small cliff and looks incredibly photogenic with its white tower against the deep blue ocean. That alone makes a quick stop worthwhile.

We actually found the beach right next to it even more beautiful. Hardly any people, a few small huts, relaxed vibes — it almost looked like something straight out of a travel magazine, just without the crowds. We could have easily spread out our beach towels and spent the entire day there.

If you’re driving this route anyway, you should definitely plan a short detour here.

Snorkeling with turtles in Mirissa

In Mirissa, we of course spent time at the beach as well. And yes, the beaches are beautiful. But compared directly to Hiriketiya, they simply didn’t captivate us as much. Maybe it was the charm, maybe the vibe — Hiriketiya just had more heart for us.

We went snorkeling at Turtle Beach in Mirissa because the beach is known for turtle sightings. And yes, we did see turtles, which was, of course, really special in the moment. At the same time, it was very touristy, and the conditions weren’t ideal when we were there. Compared to my experiences on the Gili Islands in Indonesia, the conditions there were noticeably better. Still, seeing a turtle in the wild is always something special.

Secret Beach Mirissa didn’t fully convince us either. The location is nice, but the large restaurant right on the beach makes it feel very touristy. The weather also wasn’t great on the day we visited — maybe it would have looked different in the sunshine.

One spot we did find very cool, though, was Parrot Rock, which rises straight out of the water right by the beach. From a scenic perspective, it really adds something and creates a beautiful backdrop. What didn’t really feel worth it to us, though, was the walk up to Coconut Tree Hill. The spot is famous on Instagram, but in reality, it felt less spectacular than expected. Some of the palm trees were damaged, and apart from the trees and a view of the ocean, there isn’t much to see. For us, it was more of a “nice to do if you’re nearby, but not a must.”

What we want to see next time

Unfortunately, our time in Sri Lanka was limited — and especially along the South Coast, there are still so many places we would have loved to see.

We would have really liked to visit Weligama and Ahangama, for example — both known for their beaches, surf spots, and stylish cafés. Galle, with its historic fort, is also still high on my list. A bit farther west is Ahu Bay, which is said to be incredibly beautiful as well. In addition, the eastern part of the South Coast is particularly popular with surfers and is said to be even quieter and more untouched than some areas along the southwest coast.

We didn’t make it everywhere — but maybe that’s exactly what’s so beautiful about traveling. Not having to see everything. But having reasons to come back. My list of places I still want to discover in Sri Lanka has definitely grown quite long. And I’m sure of one thing: this won’t be our last time there.

Where to eat & drink

You can eat incredibly well in Hiriketiya. I’ve saved all our spots in my Google Maps list, but there are a few I really want to highlight here: The First Roti Hut is an absolute must if you want to try really good roti. They offer both savory and sweet versions. I went for the Nutella one and didn’t regret it for a second. Simple, affordable, and seriously good. A bit more upscale — but absolutely delicious — is RAA Hiriketiya. It’s beautifully located and on a whole different level quality-wise. Perfect for a relaxed evening with truly great food. We also had very tasty, traditional food at Ceylonus Seafood Restaurant. For excellent tacos and occasional great drink deals, The Hangout Hiriketiya is a good choice as well. If you’re in the mood to party, keep your eyes and ears open — flyers are often handed out around town. Dots Bay House is especially popular and regularly hosts parties; you can also eat and drink there. Chill Vibes Hostel also hosts events from time to time. And then there are those spontaneous “forest raves,” which seem to pop up every now and then.

We also ate really well around Mirissa and Matara. At Swell Cafe (part of our accommodation), the food was very good. A true highlight for us, though, was Dhana’s Curry Pot. They offer a kind of curry buffet where you can sample different curries — perfect if you want to try your way through Sri Lankan cuisine. And it’s super affordable! If you’re looking to party in Mirissa, The Doctor’s House is a clear recommendation. During high season, they host a big party every Wednesday, and pretty much everyone from the surrounding area shows up. The location is truly special and definitely worth a visit.

Where to sleep

In Hiriketiya, we stayed at The Atrium Hiriketiya (affiliate link) and it was truly a home run. The hotel is just a few steps from the beach, which was perfect for us since we basically went straight to the ocean every day. There is a pool as well, but honestly, we never used it because we preferred the beach. The rooms were spotlessly clean, modern, and very stylish overall. What stood out especially was the breakfast: included in the price, really good and the coffee was actually one of the best on the entire trip. On top of that, the staff were incredibly warm and welcoming. Both the owner and the whole team were attentive yet relaxed. That mix of professionalism and ease is what made our stay so special.

We then continued on to Mirissa/Matara, where we stayed at Swell Shacks (affiliate link). This hotel was also absolutely beautiful. Located right on the beach, you can hear the sound of the ocean from your bed; and there’s a pool overlooking the sea. It really doesn’t get much better than that. There’s also a great restaurant on site, so in theory, you could easily spend the entire day there.

Both accommodations were definitely our favorites of the entire trip. They were a bit more expensive than our earlier stops, but still absolutely fair for what you get. We would book both of them again without hesitation.

I have put together a list of all the places on Google Maps.

You can find the list here.